Overcooked and underloved jam
By RENEE POTTLE
I’m asked over and over: “How do I fix my overcooked jam?”
It’s frustrating. You spend time, money, and energy to lovingly make a batch of beautiful jam. You have visions of tucking jars of it into Christmas presents or serving it on top of homemade biscuits. You imagine how impressed your family will be by the sheer variety of unique jam combinations you’ve created, such as apricot-raspberry, apple-pear, or cherry-lime. But then you open a jar and find that your jam is thick and gloopy-impossible to spread with a knife and almost like gummy candy. What went wrong? Why did this particular batch overcook? Can it be salvaged? And how can you prevent it from happening again?
Most of us, even experienced home food preservers, overcook at least one batch of jam or preserves every year. I tend to have difficulties with berry and cherry jams in particular. Some people struggle with stone fruit spreads. It helps to understand why the batch overcooked in the first place.
What causes overcooked jam?
While there are nearly as many reasons for overcooked jam as there are preservers making it, these are the most likely culprits.
- Insufficient cooking time. To make jam, we combine fruit, sugar, and lemon juice, and slowly bring the mixture to a boil until the sugar dissolves. Then we cook the jam rapidly until we reach the gelling point. If we’re impatient and skip the first step, the jam quickly overcooks.
- Too much sour fruit. Traditional jam needs a combination of sweet, ripe fruit along with a small amount of underripe fruit for acidity. Too much underripe fruit will set up or overcook quickly. I especially have this problem when making blackberry jam. Blackberries are naturally high in pectin, so they set up quicker than other fruit jams. Plus, blackberries aren’t grown in my area, so when I purchase a container of fresh berries, many of them are sour or underripe.
- Dramatic recipe changes. When we’re overloaded with ripe fruit, it’s tempting to double the jam recipe and get that fruit put up! You need to resist the temptation, though. Jam recipes shouldn’t be doubled. The jam solution only works at certain amounts, and doubling the ingredients causes the heat to be distributed differently, often leading to a batch of overcooked jam. Food manufacturers prepare large batches of jam with special equipment that’s unavailable to home cooks.
Likewise, halving a recipe without reducing the pan size can also lead to an overcooked batch. If the jam solution barely covers the bottom of the cooking pan, it will overcook within a matter of minutes. You can successfully halve a jam recipe, but be sure to use a smaller saucepan too.
- Changes in the weather. I once taught sixth graders to make pudding from scratch on a hot, humid day. The kids stirred and stirred for the whole class period, but their pudding never thickened. Why? Because there was too much water in the air, and the solution couldn’t cook it off fast enough. The same thing can happen when making a pot of jam. If it’s a rainy day, it’ll take longer for the jam to set, but if the air is unusually dry, your jam may overcook quickly. Yesterday’s apricot jam took 45 minutes to gel on an overcast day, but might only take 20 minutes today, when the humidity is low.
- Failure to check the gelling point. Each batch of cooking jam must be checked for the gelling point-we can’t judge this point on time alone. I’ve been making jam for 30 years, but I still check each and every batch for the gelling point.
It’s all coming together
These are the four most common methods of checking the gelling point of jam.
- Plate method. While the jam is cooking, scoop out a slight spoonful and drop it onto a glass plate, then put the plate in the refrigerator for a minute. If the refrigerated jam sets up, remove the cooking jam from the heat and ladle it into jars.
- Freezer method. Similar to the above method, cool a glass plate in the freezer until it’s cold. Drop a little of the cooking jam onto the plate. Draw a spoon through the jam. If the line you’ve drawn remains distinct, the jam is gelled.
- Spoon method. Using a metal spoon, stir the cooking jam and then lift the spoon out of the mixture. If the jam comes off the spoon in a sheet, it’s successfully thickened.
- Temperature method. This method is the easiest, but with a caveat. Jam is usually set when the temperature reaches 8 to 9 degrees above the temperature of boiling water. Water usually boils at 212 degrees, but not always-atmospheric pressure can affect the exact boiling point. So, if you choose this method, check today’s boiling water temperature first.
Amanda’s Chicken Cherries Jubilee
A couple of years ago I made several batches of cherry jam. Some of it was overcooked. One of my daughters-in-law turned two jars of it into this creative chicken dish served over rice. She cooks for eight people every night, so meals that are tasty and simple are always a bonus. Yields 8 servings.
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 pint overcooked cherry jam
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Place all ingredients in a slow cooker.
Cover and cook on low for 4 to 6 hours, or until chicken is cooked through.
Salvaging overcooked jam
If the jam tastes scorched, then it’s a lost cause. However, if the jam is just too thick, you may be able to repair the batch. The following technique usually doesn’t work for me, but it’s successful often enough that I still attempt it.
Spoon the overcooked jam into a large saucepan. Add 1 cup of water and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring to incorporate all of the water. Cook until the gelling point has been reached. Spoon into clean jars and re-process in the water bath.
If the above method doesn’t work, you can try these serving methods for thick, overcooked (but not scorched) jam:
- Heat small amounts of jam in the microwave, a few seconds at a time, and then use as you would normally.
- If it’s still too thick, add some water while heating in the microwave, and then use it as an unusual pancake or ice cream syrup. (Where else but at home could you find orange marmalade ice cream sundaes?)
- Whisk overcooked jam with vinegar, mustard, and tomato sauce to make Sweet and Tangy Barbecue Sauce (see below).
- Beat some into buttercream frosting and spread on cupcakes.
- Use it to make muffins, including Peanut Butter and Jelly Muffins (see below).
- Melt jam in the microwave and brush it over a freshly baked pound cake or bar cookies. It adds flavor and helps the baked goods stay moist longer.
- Melt jam and brush it over meatloaf, ham, or roasted vegetables.
- Add overcooked jam to stir-fried vegetables.
Peanut butter and jelly muffins
This recipe has been a family favorite for three generations. It’s the recipe I make for potlucks, long road trips, and grandchildren’s lunches.
Yields 12 muffins.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 cup peanut butter
3/4 cup milk
2 large eggs
1/4 cup jam or preserves
Preheat oven to 400 F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin; set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, and baking powder.
Using a pastry blender, cut in peanut butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
Stir in milk and eggs.
Fill each muffin cup half full with batter. Top with about 1 teaspoon of jam. Finish filling muffin cups with remaining batter.
Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until lightly browned. Serve warm.
Sweet and tangy barbecue sauce
I’ve successfully used overcooked cherry jam, blackberry jam, and mango jam to make barbecue sauce. This recipe can also be made with jam that isn’t overcooked.
Yields 2 cups.
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup homemade jam
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
Place all ingredients in a small saucepan, and heat slowly over medium-low heat, stirring until combined.
Use with grilled hamburgers, baked beans, or as a sandwich spread. Store in refrigerator.
Excerpted from GRIT. To read more articles from GRIT, please visit www.grit.com or call 866-803-7096 to subscribe. Copyright 2020 by Ogden Publications Inc.
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